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Runner’s high
Athletics Weekly begin a series of articles focused on combining racing with tourism. This week BRITTA SENDLHOFER recounts her experience racing in the Himalayas.
A TWO-WEEK holiday to far-flung countries doesn’t necessarily have to result in a break from training and the putting on of unwanted pounds. It’s quite possible to fit some 100 miles of running, a spell at altitude and plenty of fresh mountain air around some spectacular sightseeing. You may even come home quite a few pounds lighter……!
If, like me, you love the mountains, you won’t take much convincing that the Himalayan 100-Mile Stage Race is the perfect holiday. For those who find it hard to let go of mile splits and exact distances, the loss of GPS signal in the dense jungles may be troublesome at times – but it should be offset by some interesting heart rate monitor readings, taken while winding up to 12,000 feet on the first day of the race. When the altitude and consecutive days of long-distance running take effect, they may find that what they thought of as their working heart rate was now the reading at rest.
Most runners were there to experience the mighty Himalayas and to revel in the challenge of 100 miles in these awesome surroundings. There would be hot competition at the front of the field, but many were there simply to cover the distance.
Seventy runners from 16 different countries took part in the 17th Himalayan 100-Mile Stage Race, held in October and November 2007, in the Darjeeling area of India (North-East Himalayan ranges) – and I was one of them.
Never having traveled to Asia before, just making it to the start line at Maneybhanjang via Delhi, Bagdogra, Mirik and Darjeeling was the experience of a lifetime.
As we stood on the start line, the inhabitants of Maneybhanjang were out in force to see off this eclectic mix of runners setting out on their journey through the Himalayas. There was music, some dancers in strange masks, local girls handing out scarves to all the competitors and the road was lined with what seemed like the entire population of the town, all staring at us curiously.
The interest from locals in the villages we passed through over the next five days would remain consistent. All seemed slightly bemused, but were friendly and always cheerful.
The first checkpoint was all too clear to see on the steep hill ahead after the initial lung-bursting two miles, the trail flattened out a little but continued to rise gradually over endless switchbacks until we reached the dizzy heights of Sandakphu. The weather was gloomy and increasingly damp and cold as we climbed towards the finish.
The terrain was challenging. Picture the cobbled section of the old London marathon course and imagine a slightly rougher, looser version that continues for 24 miles! Aid stations which offered water, glucose powder, bananas and boiled potatoes were dotted along at regular intervals – roughly every two to three miles.
The first runner arrived in Sandakphu in 4:21 – the last ones would arrive long after dark but were welcomed with the same enthusiasm as the winners and, as every competitor before them, got to run through the finish tape.
The second day started with what was the main reason most of us had been persuaded onto the trip – views of four of the world’s five highest mountains! Eating our porridge outside at 5am, we watched Kanchenjunga stand proud as the sun began to rise and colour it orange. Slightly further to the west, we could spy Lhotse, Mount Everest and Makalu.
By 6.30am, we stood on the start line ready and raring to run 20 miles that promised continuous, stunning, but distracting, mountain vistas.
The terrain softened a little on day two. The cobbled tracks gave way to sandy trails and the climbs were much milder and everybody returned to camp at Sandakphu in time for lunch and a lazy afternoon in the sun.
The evenings were uneventful throughout the trip. The cold and dark, the tired legs and blistered feet coupled with the early morning starts didn’t make for wild parties. Instead of downing the beer that was available at ridiculously low prices, participants spent the evenings organizing their kit, patching up injuries or just getting an early night.
The third stage of the event is also a race in its own right, although only two competitors had traveled solely for the marathon. It’s a truly tough day out. There is no knowing the real distance of the route, but it is agreed by most that it must far exceed the stated 26.4 miles.
After roughly 18 miles along the undulating ridge that leads along the Indian-Nepalese border towards Kanchenjunga, the course dropped down through dense forests on steep, rough and eroded tracks.
The descent was relentless and required huge concentration. The organizer was genuinely pleased that evening that we had followed his orders not to break a knee or ankle along the way – the logistics of a rescue on the narrow and steep tracks through a jungle inaccessible to cars do not bear thinking about!
By the third evening, the 70-plus miles of tough racing up until this point had taken its toll on most and the race doctor was working hard that evening. At least the lungs had it a little easier now we had left the altitude, the temperatures at camp were milder and there was a little village to explore – shopping at last! (It’s quite a challenge to spend one’s rupees on this trip!)
A comparatively late start, a mere 13 miles and some firm tarmac made the fourth day a little easier, although the legs, burning with lactic from the previous day’s exertions, did not appreciate it. A long descent through busy little villages, a flat stretch along the river and a gradual climb up through the forest on the opposite side of the valley provided plenty of challenges and competition was as hard-fought as the road runners came into their own and showed how it was done.
There was plenty of time left to relax after this stage – 83 miles done, 17 to go. Some party spirit returned that evening as we sat around the fire for a cultural exchange evening. We all knew each other well enough now not to mind making fools of ourselves as we showcased songs and dances from our home countries. The locals of Rimbik provided music, dancers and plenty of onlookers, who were now convinced that these runners really were crazy.
Day five was another tarmac day – a long, steady climb to begin with, then the seemingly endless descent towards the finish. The trees shaded us from the direct glare of the sun and there was a certain sense of urgency in the air as runners raced (or limped) towards the finish line. On a few occasions, the trees thinned out and we were offered amazing views of the mountains and valleys below. Thee were temples, prayer flags fluttering in the wind and, of course, numerous locals lining the streets to observe the madness. Most of the competitors had little patience to take it all in on this final day, though, and were keen to just get the job done.
The finishing straight was lined with school children waving flags and eventually everybody made it across the line. A huge relief – and a great sense of achievement for all who had made it. Whether it had taken 15 or 40 hours to complete the 100 miles didn’t matter much to anyone.
Apart from a touch physical challenge, the race offers a real chance to experience a different world and its inhabitants. The curious eyes of the children, the permanent smiles and friendly greetings of locals, the spirituality of the place and the awesome surroundings take you back to basics and the experience for many is quite profound.
The organization of the race was faultless. The Race Director C.S.Pandey is an enthusiastic and likeable character who is passionate about the event. The group gelled easily and there was lots of banter along the way.
The stages
Stage 1: October 28
Maneybhanjang (6600ft) to Sandakphu (11815ft)
24 miles, 8350ft ascent, 1500ft descent. Fastest times: men 4:21; women 4:59
Stage 2: October 29
Sandakphu (11815ft) to Molle (11655ft) to Sandakphu (11815ft)
20 miles, 1330ft ascent, 1330ft descent. Fastest times: men 2:51; women 3:15
Stage 3: October 30
Incorporating the 13th Mt.Everest Challenge Marathon
Sandakphu (11815ft) to Molle (11655ft) to Phulet (11380ft) to Molle (11655ft) to Rimbik (6350ft) 26 miles, 3700ft ascent, 8963ft descent. Fastest times: men 4:31; women 5:40
Stage 4: October 31
Sandakphu (11815ft) to Molle (11655ft) to Phulet (11380ft) to Molle (11655ft) to Rimbik (6350ft) 26 miles, 3700ft ascent, 8963ft descent. Fastest times: men 4:31; women 5:40
Stage 5: November 1
Palmajua (6560ft) to Maneybhanjang (6600ft)
17 miles, 2300ft ascent, 2204ft descent. Fastest times: men 2:12; women 2:44
Results
Men: 1. Duncan Larkin (USA) 15:39
2. Miguel Angel Merino Gomez (ESP) 15:58
3. Alan David Colley (GBR) 17:33
Women: 1. Elin Margrethe Engdahl Wright (Norway) 18:33
2. Prunella Venning Hayhow (GBR) 22:17
3. Tsafnat Neeman Einhoren (ISR) 22:29
Mt.Everest Challenge Marathon (Stage 3)
Men: 1. Miguel Angel Merino Gomez (ESP) 4:31
2. Duncan Larkin (USA) 4:37
3. Robert Forbes Murdoch (GBR) 5:04
Women: 1. Elin Margrethe Engdahl Wright (Norway) 5:40
2. Tracey Chalfant Nicholson (USA) 6:14
3. Prunella Venning Hayhow (UK) 6:40
